ELEMENT

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

Elements describe the essential outcomes of a unit of competency.

Performance criteria describe the performance needed to demonstrate achievement of the element. Where bold italicised text is used, further information is detailed in the required skills and knowledge section and the range statement. Assessment of performance is to be consistent with the evidence guide.

1. Select suitable equipment for belay system.

1.1. Select a belay system according to contextual issues of the activity.

1.2. Identify and select equipment according to relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures.

1.3. Select anchors that meet the requirements of the climb and abilities of the participants.

1.4. Assess condition of theanchors, including performance under likely load.

1.5. Choose a belay device that is suitable to the artificial surface conditions and belayer's ability.

1.6. Complete all necessary equipment safety checks, according to organisational policies and procedures.

2. Set up belay system.

2.1. Rig multiple anchors, ensuring equalisation and minimal shock loading.

2.2. Tie knots and rig ropes suitable for the type of belay system established.

2.3. Establish a belay from which the belayer is able to escape and safely perform a rescue.

2.4. Avoid or remove belay hazards, to maintain safety of belayer.

2.5. Determine the need for, and establish, back up belay systems.

3. Rig rope pitches.

3.1. Identify safe access to and egress from the site according to organisational policies and procedures.

3.2. Identify ascent and descent route appropriate to context.

3.3. Select and tie knots suitable for the type of system established and for potential retrieval or rescue situations.

3.4. Rig pitches for climbs in routine and non-routine multi pitch contexts.

Required skills

problem-solving skills to select appropriate anchors and belay

rope handling and knot tying skills to rig ropes and anchors adequately and safely

first aid and emergency response skills appropriate to the location to enable initial response to emergencies and personal health care.

Required knowledge

relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to enable the safe conduct of multi pitch climbing on artificial surfaces

equipment types, characteristics and technology used to establish belays for multi pitch climbing on artificial surfaces

care and maintenance of equipment to ensure prolonged life span and safety requirements, as advised by the manufacturer's specifications and recommendations for equipment use

belay and anchor systems appropriate for multi pitch artificial climbing surfaces

technical climbing and equipment knowledge to establish top and bottom belays

types of knots, their advantages and disadvantages and their impact on roping activities

emergency procedures, potential hazards and obstacles relevant to the location to ensure safety of self and others.

The evidence guide provides advice on assessment and must be read in conjunction with the performance criteria, required skills and knowledge, range statement and the Assessment Guidelines for the Training Package.

Overview of assessment

Critical aspects for assessment and evidence required to demonstrate competency in this unit

Evidence of the following is essential:

independently selects appropriate equipment and carries out safety checks to ensure effective working order

differentiates between the types of belay systems, anchors and knots and their suitability to different rigging situations and uses discretion and judgement to determine belay system required for climbing in routine and non-routine multi pitch contexts

determines the need for, and establishes, back up belay systems to ensure safety of self and other participants.

Context of and specific resources for assessment

Assessment must ensure participation in multiple rigging of anchors and equipment to demonstrate competency and consistency of performance

Assessment must ensure access to:

resources and information regarding climbing and belaying equipment

suitable artificial multi pitch climbing sites with fixed anchors and varying qualities and features that allow participant to demonstrate rigging skills

other climbing participants, to assist in belaying and rigging

equipment such as anchors, harnesses, belay systems, belay devices, slings, ropes, karabiners and first aid equipment.

Method of assessment

A range of assessment methods should be used to assess practical skills and knowledge. The following examples are appropriate for this unit:

oral or written questioning to assess knowledge of relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to ensure safe and appropriate use of all climbing equipment

observation of safe participation and demonstration of setting up belay systems suitable to different contexts and participants

observation of dealing with contingencies, such as equipment failure

third-party reports from a supervisor detailing performance.

Holistic assessment with other units relevant to the industry sector, workplace and job role is recommended, for example:

SISOCLA407A Apply multi pitch lead climbing skills on artificial surfaces

The range statement relates to the unit of competency as a whole. It allows for different work environments and situations that may affect performance. Bold italicised wording, if used in the performance criteria, is detailed below. Essential operating conditions that may be present with training and assessment (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) may also be included.

Belay system may include:

top belay

bottom belay.

Contextual issues may include:

weather conditions, including times

season

transport

location.

Equipment may include:

helmets

karabiners

harnesses

belay device

slings

ropes

tapes

anchors

quick draws

protection

footwear

chalk bag and chalk

first aid kit.

Relevant legislation may include:

occupational health and safety

permits or permission for access

environmental regulations.

Organisational policies and procedures may include:

occupational health and safety

use and maintenance of equipment

emergency procedures

code of ethics.

Anchors may include:

bolts

chains

bollards

eyelets

U bolts

beams

wire cables.

Participants may include:

experienced

adults

tourists, club members, clients, school or youth groups.

Condition of the anchors may include:

age

location

wear

decay

corrosion

environmental stress

insect damage.

Likely load may include:

group size

set up

type of climb conducted

climber ability

technique

possible forces generated during a fall.

Belay device may include:

plate devices

auto-locking devices

tubular devices.

Artificial surface conditions may include:

portable or fixed walls or towers

fixed towers or bridges

indoor or outdoor

multi pitch.

Safety checks may include:

A - anchors - secure and suitable to application

B - buckles - locked as per manufacturers recommendations

C - connector - locked, secured and orientated

D - devices - threaded correctly and secured

E - everything else including end or rope knots, friction hitches, belayer ready, helmet chin strap, clothing, jewellery and hair secured.

F- friend - cross check

G - organisation specific procedures.

Knots may include:

end-of-rope knots

mid-rope knots

rope joining knots

tape knot

lock-off knots.

Hazards may include:

temperature extremes

slippery or unstable terrain

group management hazards.

Safety of belayer may include:

attachment to anchor or alternate safety system

positioning out of direct line of equipment fall

minimising movement of the belayer in the event of a fall.